Day 16 - Sandspit to Tlell, Haida Gwaii - Back on the Bikes

Day 16 - Sandspit to Tlell

Back on the bikes - 56km

After four fabulous days of floating and bloating it was time to get back on the bikes.  We felt sad leaving Emma and Sandspit, but it was time to move on.  We bid farewell and set off for the ferry, making a quick stop at Onward Point to look for whales.

Onward Point, Moresby Island

 As we were cycling out of Sandspit an approaching car slowed.  The driver rolled down the window and cautioned us that a bear was up ahead on the road.

I am working hard to overcome my fear of bears, but the driver did not say exactly where up ahead the bear was lurking and as I peddled along I had visions of bears attacking at each bend.  I stopped to pull out my whistle and find the bear bangers.  To Rob's amusement (or disgust?) I began to sing at the top of my lungs.  If my singing doesn't scare a bear away, nothing will!

A couple of kilometers up the road, we finally saw him.  I came to a complete and full stop.  It seemed the prudent thing to do.  The bear took a little run at an approaching car, gave us a disinterested look and then scampered in to the forest.  We would like to share a picture of the bear with you, but honestly, when you round the bend on your bike and encounter a bear, your first instinct is not to reach for the camera.  We waited a long while for the bear to move on and for my heart rate to return to normal.

Welcome to Skidegate

After the short ferry crossing to Graham Island we set our sights on Skidegate.  It was the annual Skidegate Days Celebration featuring a marathon, canoe races, fish splitting competition, salmon dinner and Grand Finale Dance.  We stopped to take in the action and while we were eating dinner we ran in to David, a young guy who had been volunteering with Moresby Explorers.  David is from St. Louis, Missouri.  We asked how he managed to find his way to Haida Gwaii.  We loved his answer.  His father had given him a Lonely Planet book and David's mission was to visit all of the "cool places" he had read about.  David was spending a few more days on the Island and then making his way further north.  I silently wondered if his Dad ever regretted gifting the book to David.

Northbound on Graham Island

We learned that the Skidegate Days Grand Finale dance was sold out, so it was an easy decision to point north and head for Tlell.  We took time out to visit Balance Rock, another one of Haida Gwaii's spiritual wonders.

Balance Rock

We enjoyed a flat, easy ride along the coast to TLell, population 179.  We were both glad for a short and easy ride as our bodies were highly tuned in to floating and bloating versus cycling. I am afraid it may take a few days to get our cycling legs back.  Our home for the night was in the Misty Meadows campground located in Naikoon Provincial Park.

Misty Meadows - Naikoon Provincial Park

Naikoon is bordered by a hundred kilometres of expansive beach.  Rainforest, wetlands, bogs and sand dunes make up the area.  We pitched the tent, hung our food to keep it away from curious and hungry bears and enjoyed a fabulous evening by the ocean.  We had the entire beach to ourselves.

Back to basics....peanut butter and granola

Giggle of the Day:

True confession time!  Rob and I are "culturally challenged."  It is not that we don't have an appreciation for the arts, culture and history, but when push comes to shove we always choose to be outside cycling, hiking or paddling during our vacations.  However, we made an exception on this trip.  Everyone we met encouraged us to visit the Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay.  This 50,000 square foot space features the Haida Gwaii Museum, Performance House, Carving Shed, Canoe House, Bill Reid Teaching Centre, classrooms and a bistro.  A must see!

Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llangaay

Fascinated by our stops at the Haida Villages in Gwaii Haanas, we decided to visit the Heritage Centre to learn more about the Haida culture.  We paid our admission and eyeglasses in hand (yes - we were serious enough about our visit to take our glasses with us!) we began our tour of this award winning museum.

As we stopped to view one of the displays we were cautiously approached by a Museum staff member.  "Could I ask a favour?" she said.  "Of course!" We replied.

Part of the Skidegate Days festivities included a canoe race.  Before we knew it, we were outside the museum, waist deep in the ocean, helping paddlers bring a traditionally constructed Haida canoe up on shore!  So much for our museum tour.

These are not small boats and it took a few attempts to get the beast up on the beach. Icing on the cake - we were being filmed by the German documentary film makers we had meet a few days earlier at Rose Harbour.  We continue to be surprised at how many people we bump in to that we have seen before.

Paddlers return after a first place finish in the Skidegate Days Canoe Race

Teamwork was needed to land this canoe!

Map and Route Tips:

#HaidaGwaii #CycleBC #explorebc #cycletour #gohaidagwaii #myopus